enjoy being with them, I am not star struck for sure, but I enjoy the time
and getting to know special people, what makes them successful, what drives
them, what do they want out of life. There are times when I am very envious
and then there are times I would never trade my simpler life for theirs ever.
The fame and fortune does not come with out a cost, and I like to fly under
the radar as much as I can. And as most of my good friends know I really
enjoy hanging out with my buddies, real people, those I grew up with, have
similar values and backgrounds, salt of the earth people. I am not a silver
spoon loving kind of guy, I suppose I am much harder and judgmental on those
who did not have to work for it but instead were given it.
So here is my latest star story:
I was surfing in DOH to TOH (15-20' faces) on the NS Friday in front of my
home and Kelly Slater was out, he is just such a special surfer, one of a
kind, no big ego or agro attitude in the water, his surfing takes care of all
that for him, besides ego is just an expression of insecurity which he does
not possess, and to watch him surf is incredible, up close to see his body
language, focus, fluidity, intensity, wave knowledge, timing, selection and
power. He had gotten some really fun waves this afternoon, he was doing things in sections I would just be trying to make. I was sitting on the shoulder taking the
smaller ones the DOH's to warm up and get my confidence going. Kelly had just
gotten a nice one from the point a TOH, I was about 50 yds in and on the
shoulder, a few more rolled thru and I paddled further out and into the peak,
and then it was my turn, grabbing a TOH and dropping in, weightless for a
second or two then the hook up, the speed was awesome, dropping to the
bottom, I set my rail for my turn and looked towards the top, the wall was
setting up a very good, big, long, section. Looking ahead to set my line I
turned high on the face, the high line is the fast line and I love to stick it
hard in there and pump for every last bit of speed I can get, man was I flying down the line, not bad for a 55 year old part time surfer, I felt good, although I
