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A great read from Mike Fox

In my life I have had the fortune/opprotunity to hang out, party, and vacation

with actors, actresses, rock stars, comedians, professional athletes and I do

enjoy being with them, I am not star struck for sure, but I enjoy the time

and getting to know special people, what makes them successful, what drives

them, what do they want out of life.  There are times when I am very envious

and then there are times I would never trade my simpler life for theirs ever. 

The fame and fortune does not come with out a cost, and I like to fly under

the radar as much as I can.  And as most of my good friends know I really

enjoy hanging out with my buddies, real people, those I grew up with, have

similar values and backgrounds, salt of the earth people.  I am not a silver

spoon loving kind of guy, I suppose I am much harder and judgmental on those

who did not have to work for it but instead were given it. 

So here is my latest star story:

I was surfing in DOH to TOH (15-20' faces) on the NS Friday in front of my

home and Kelly Slater was out, he is just such a  special surfer, one of a

kind,  no big ego or agro attitude in the water, his surfing takes care of all

that for him, besides ego is just an expression of insecurity which he does

not possess, and to watch him surf is incredible, up close to see his body

language, focus, fluidity, intensity, wave knowledge, timing, selection and

power.  He had gotten some really fun waves this afternoon, he was doing things in sections I would just be trying to make.  I was sitting on the shoulder taking the

smaller ones the DOH's to warm up and get my confidence going.  Kelly had just

gotten a nice one from the point a TOH, I was about 50 yds in and on the

shoulder, a few more rolled thru and I paddled further out and into the peak,

and then it was my turn, grabbing a TOH and dropping in, weightless for a

second or two then the hook up, the speed was awesome,  dropping to the

bottom, I set my rail for my turn and looked towards the top, the wall was

setting up a very good, big, long, section.  Looking ahead to set my line I

turned high on the face, the high line is the fast line and I love to stick it

hard in there and pump for every last bit of speed I can get, man was I flying down the line, not bad for a 55 year old part time surfer, I felt good, although I 

could tell I was still rusty and my form was a bit shaky from not surfing big NS waves since last April, that's when Slater appeared in my fore vision, he was paddling up the face about 25 yds ahead and he had stopped, ok hesitated and he looked to me for a second that he was going to turn and go, so I looked at him and smiled and shook my head to say no way buddy, I am coming thru!!! The wave was great, long fast and fun!  I paddled back out and sat outside. Soon Slater paddled back out as he had of course caught another macking set wave and I turned to look at him, he smiled at me as he paddled by and said, that was such a nice wave, there was so much room on it for a moment I wanted to join you!  I smiled and said, yea it was a good one, but I’m glad you did not!  The next night I took my friend and old businesses associate’s son and new wife to diner in Haleiwa and at the table next to us, well yes KS.  We sat down ordered a drink and then he looked over at the table, maybe it was a double take or maybe he was just thinking another old guy surfer.  I did not say a word, as I was with the real star, the real hero, Derek is 28 and in the Army, recently stationed on Oahu, he has done two tours in Afghanistan for a total of 27 months!!!!  He has just resigned for a third tour of nine months.  His beautiful wife Kaleen there beside him loving and supporting a man who has dedicated his life to serving our country and risking his life so that we can live in freedom and hopefully spread freedom in the world.  So  that we can surf, play, love and live.  Now for sure KS is a star in my mind but I could not help to think that Derek is just as much if not more of a star for all he has done!!!!  Thank you Derek

Mike Fox on 1984 record breaking Molokai team!

Blast from the past!!

Molokai 1984

The Outrigger Canoe Club's No.1 crew in the Leilani koa canoe set a new record time of 5:18:19 . The crew members were Bob Riley, Bill Bright, Ed Pickering, Marc Haine, Kevin Olds, Brant Ackerman, MIKE FOX, Henry Ayau and Keone Downing. Steve Scott, men's head coach did a terrific job. He was assisted by Walter Guild, who added guidance and spirit.